Ni som redan har byggt pumpar, har ni några bra ideér på vad man ska göra och inte göra. Lutar åt att det blir en konverterad fettspruta. Är det stor skillnad på vilken man köper? Vart hittade ni lämpliga nipplar?
Alla tankar och funderingar är välkommna.
Kanske något som man skulle kunna lägga in i wikin sedan?
/Magnus
Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Austin 850 -66
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Nog skillnad på sprutorna, min är dålig men det funkar i alla fall med glykol/T-röd. Anslutningsnippeln kan du köpa hos en "Parkerstore" (hydraulikfirma). Kostar nog ca 300. Din närmsta firma är nog Västerås. http://www.parkerstore.se .
Du skall ha en ackumulatorpåfyllningsnippel(vet ej art.nr). Skall vara av "bilventilstyp" med 1/8" rörgänga i andra ändan. Du kan ju se min "vackra" pump här...
http://www.hundkoja.com/phpBB3/viewtopi ... =14&t=4694
Slang kan du använda bensinslang om den tar 20bars tryck, Biltemas håller på min pump i alla fall. Alternativt använder du hydraulslang men det är DYRT.
Om de inte fixar påfyllningsnippeln med min beskrivning så hör av dig. jag har en fd. kollega som jobbar på Parkerstore i Göteborg så jag kan ringa honom i så fall.
/ Manne (Fd. hydrauliker)
Du skall ha en ackumulatorpåfyllningsnippel(vet ej art.nr). Skall vara av "bilventilstyp" med 1/8" rörgänga i andra ändan. Du kan ju se min "vackra" pump här...
http://www.hundkoja.com/phpBB3/viewtopi ... =14&t=4694
Slang kan du använda bensinslang om den tar 20bars tryck, Biltemas håller på min pump i alla fall. Alternativt använder du hydraulslang men det är DYRT.
Om de inte fixar påfyllningsnippeln med min beskrivning så hör av dig. jag har en fd. kollega som jobbar på Parkerstore i Göteborg så jag kan ringa honom i så fall.
/ Manne (Fd. hydrauliker)
Austin Mini MKII (1969)
Vespa Touring 150 (1960)
Vespa Touring 150 (1960)
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
För ett tag sedan hittade jag en sida där all data om minin fanns. Där fanns också data för hur högt tryck, hur mycke vättska osv det ska vara i fjädringen. Sen skulle man ju naturligtvis ha sparat länken, men det gjordes aldrig.Någon som kan hjälpa till?
Jag var helt säker på att det var på miniresources.com men där kan jag inte hitta något.
/Magnus
Jag var helt säker på att det var på miniresources.com men där kan jag inte hitta något.
/Magnus
Austin 850 -66
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
pumpar går att köpa i England inte så rysligt dyra.
TURBO ROCKS..
henriks bygg
henriks bygg
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
hej
här är info om hur mycket det ska vara i dämparna.http://drcwww.uvt.nl/~bogaard/manual/rearsusp/10.htm
här är info om hur mycket det ska vara i dämparna.http://drcwww.uvt.nl/~bogaard/manual/rearsusp/10.htm
nils
Austin mini 1000 75;a jubileum nr;003 av 200
Austin mini 1000 75;a jubileum nr;003 av 200
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Stort tack nils.
minimini: Jag vet inte vad du menar med "inte så ruskigt dyrt", de jag hittat kostar runt 3000:-. Det tycker iaf jag är lite väl mycket.
/Magnus
minimini: Jag vet inte vad du menar med "inte så ruskigt dyrt", de jag hittat kostar runt 3000:-. Det tycker iaf jag är lite väl mycket.
/Magnus
Austin 850 -66
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
ok. sorry, men jag tyckte inte det var så blodigt tyckte det var ok pris. jag bara sa det ifall du inte viste dom fanns färdiga
TURBO ROCKS..
henriks bygg
henriks bygg
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Ingen fara på taket. Om det var något som skulle annvändas ofta så tycker jag också att priset är ok.
Men med lite tur så är det lång tid tills nästa gång...
/Magnus
Men med lite tur så är det lång tid tills nästa gång...
/Magnus
Austin 850 -66
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
kolla länken http://members.cox.net/oldertech/hydrolastic.html
Welcome to the Hydrolastic Service Bay!
I will try to tell you all I know about Hydrolastic suspension as used on 1100 vehicles. These are examples of how I've done it and how I've learned to make due with equipment available. You might have some other ideas, so please email me if you have any suggestions for doing it better.
First thing first, you will need a way to fill your car. If you wanted to repair your car, the dealer manual, and all repair manuals of the era told you to go to your local service specialist to have the suspension "depressurized," then drive home, slowly, under 30 mph, and do whatever work you needed to do on your car. Well, these days you would be hard-pressed to find a service facility that could pump or depressureize an 1100.
This is the Hydrolastic machine that was used at BL dealers in the '70s.
Because I'm a nutty about these cars, I wanted to see if I could find a dealer machine to do my Hydrolastic service. Years ago I finally located one and found out it was not for sale. I kept asking the owner through the years and finally I have been able to purchase it. On its first trial, I found the original connector to be so leaky that I couldn't actually use it. I've since found a new connector and it works better than new.
The best type of connector to use actually performs two tasks. It makes a tight seal over the filler schrader valve, but it makes that seal without depressing the valve until your are ready. That's the secret to getting in and out of the system.
The ultimate Hydrolastic filler.
Ok, you might be asking, "A new connector, where do you find those?" The filler connector I've found is used to service "accumulators," which are chambers that are charged with a gas. They are used in aircraft and other applications where a quick blast of hydraulic pressure is needed to get some operation started. Ok, that has nothing to do with Hydrolastic suspension except that we can share technology. We can use the filer called a "Gas Chuck."
I just ordered another one. They are kind of pricey, around $80 US. You might be able to find a better deal, but here is the info you need. I ordered it at a shop that specializes in hydraulic hoses and connectors.
Gas Chuck
Parker (brand name) P/N 8708150000 Parker website Visit their website and type in your zip code to find a local distributor.
These parts were gathered to make a Hydrolastic filler.
I also went to the local hardware store and found the rest of the parts to build a new Hydrolastic filler, just to see how easy it would be. I purchased a grease gun, a grease gun rubber hose (rated to 3000 psi) and a coupler to allow it to fit to the new charging assembly. Try to find a grease gun that doesn't have any additional plugs or breather valves at the pump end like the one I have pictured. You will need to wrap some plumbing tape on the cylinder of the grease gun at the pump end to make it hold fluid. Plumbing tape goes on all the threads of the couplings too. You don't have to put the plunger in the gun when its in use. You need to keep the gun open so you can observer the level of fluid and top up as necessary.
If you want to get really fancy, you could put a three way tap between the hose and the gun to put in a gauge. Personally, I don't use a gauge. I measure the height of the car and use that as the final word. Measuring from the center of the front wheel hubcap to the bottom of the fender should give you a distance of 13 5/8".
A Hydrolastic filler assembly built with a grease gun.
Instructions for topping up a car
Here is the procedure for topping up the suspension. Unscrew the T-handle on the charging assembly. Unscrew the cap over the filler located behind the engine. Screw on the charging assembly but don't tighten it all the way with your wrench. Fill the grease gun with fluid, and start pumping until some of the green liquid dribbles out of the charging assembly. THEN tighten the assembly. By doing the dribble method you have just cleared air out of the line between the grease gun and the car. OK, now you are ready for action. Twist the T-handle in all the way. You are now "online" with the suspension system. You may even be able to feel the lever move away from the gun a bit. Start pumping!!!! If you have an assistant who can watch the height and measure the whole time, it would be very helpful. When you reach the proper height, first twist the T-handle out all the way. That takes the gun "offline." Then remove the charging assembly. Do the same procedure for the other side and you are up to height!
Instructions for filling a car after displacer service.
Now we have some new issues to contend with. The system must be void of air before the filling begins. The dealer machine has two lines, one for filling and emptying and one for evacuating the system. The connector evacuating side is more like one used on a bicycle pump. It slides over the schrader valve and you turn a lever to open up the valve. Years ago I took a jar that was "vacuum packed" to hold cereal. I poked holes and put this bicycle pump hose into the jar. I put a second line at the top of the jar to pull a vacuum using, believe it or not, the vacuum of the engine!!! I let the engine pump the system. I'm sure it was not perfect, but it seemed to do the trick. If I were to need to do it again, I would probably use another form of vacuum pump. The book says to draw it up to 27 inches. I can't get the factor one to do that, but any vacuum will be helpful before you fill the system. After that use the above procedure for filling.
Bleeding the system with the above setup
You can remove the hose at the grease gun end and hook up the filler charging assembly valve with the T handle screwed out. Then take the loose end of the hose and put it in a jar. Sloooowly open the T handle valve a tiny bit and watch the fluid filling up the jar. If bubbles emerge you have air in the system. Your car will lower while you do this. You can then reattach the grease gun, bleed out the pump/hose as mentioned above, and pump the car back up. If you think you have a lot of air in the system still, you can keep doing this cycle until you get it right.
That's how I have contended with the Hydrolastic issues in the past. My next challange is to figure it how to put new hoses on the displacers. That is an on-going experiment that I'm still not very sure about. More details later.
Welcome to the Hydrolastic Service Bay!
I will try to tell you all I know about Hydrolastic suspension as used on 1100 vehicles. These are examples of how I've done it and how I've learned to make due with equipment available. You might have some other ideas, so please email me if you have any suggestions for doing it better.
First thing first, you will need a way to fill your car. If you wanted to repair your car, the dealer manual, and all repair manuals of the era told you to go to your local service specialist to have the suspension "depressurized," then drive home, slowly, under 30 mph, and do whatever work you needed to do on your car. Well, these days you would be hard-pressed to find a service facility that could pump or depressureize an 1100.
This is the Hydrolastic machine that was used at BL dealers in the '70s.
Because I'm a nutty about these cars, I wanted to see if I could find a dealer machine to do my Hydrolastic service. Years ago I finally located one and found out it was not for sale. I kept asking the owner through the years and finally I have been able to purchase it. On its first trial, I found the original connector to be so leaky that I couldn't actually use it. I've since found a new connector and it works better than new.
The best type of connector to use actually performs two tasks. It makes a tight seal over the filler schrader valve, but it makes that seal without depressing the valve until your are ready. That's the secret to getting in and out of the system.
The ultimate Hydrolastic filler.
Ok, you might be asking, "A new connector, where do you find those?" The filler connector I've found is used to service "accumulators," which are chambers that are charged with a gas. They are used in aircraft and other applications where a quick blast of hydraulic pressure is needed to get some operation started. Ok, that has nothing to do with Hydrolastic suspension except that we can share technology. We can use the filer called a "Gas Chuck."
I just ordered another one. They are kind of pricey, around $80 US. You might be able to find a better deal, but here is the info you need. I ordered it at a shop that specializes in hydraulic hoses and connectors.
Gas Chuck
Parker (brand name) P/N 8708150000 Parker website Visit their website and type in your zip code to find a local distributor.
These parts were gathered to make a Hydrolastic filler.
I also went to the local hardware store and found the rest of the parts to build a new Hydrolastic filler, just to see how easy it would be. I purchased a grease gun, a grease gun rubber hose (rated to 3000 psi) and a coupler to allow it to fit to the new charging assembly. Try to find a grease gun that doesn't have any additional plugs or breather valves at the pump end like the one I have pictured. You will need to wrap some plumbing tape on the cylinder of the grease gun at the pump end to make it hold fluid. Plumbing tape goes on all the threads of the couplings too. You don't have to put the plunger in the gun when its in use. You need to keep the gun open so you can observer the level of fluid and top up as necessary.
If you want to get really fancy, you could put a three way tap between the hose and the gun to put in a gauge. Personally, I don't use a gauge. I measure the height of the car and use that as the final word. Measuring from the center of the front wheel hubcap to the bottom of the fender should give you a distance of 13 5/8".
A Hydrolastic filler assembly built with a grease gun.
Instructions for topping up a car
Here is the procedure for topping up the suspension. Unscrew the T-handle on the charging assembly. Unscrew the cap over the filler located behind the engine. Screw on the charging assembly but don't tighten it all the way with your wrench. Fill the grease gun with fluid, and start pumping until some of the green liquid dribbles out of the charging assembly. THEN tighten the assembly. By doing the dribble method you have just cleared air out of the line between the grease gun and the car. OK, now you are ready for action. Twist the T-handle in all the way. You are now "online" with the suspension system. You may even be able to feel the lever move away from the gun a bit. Start pumping!!!! If you have an assistant who can watch the height and measure the whole time, it would be very helpful. When you reach the proper height, first twist the T-handle out all the way. That takes the gun "offline." Then remove the charging assembly. Do the same procedure for the other side and you are up to height!
Instructions for filling a car after displacer service.
Now we have some new issues to contend with. The system must be void of air before the filling begins. The dealer machine has two lines, one for filling and emptying and one for evacuating the system. The connector evacuating side is more like one used on a bicycle pump. It slides over the schrader valve and you turn a lever to open up the valve. Years ago I took a jar that was "vacuum packed" to hold cereal. I poked holes and put this bicycle pump hose into the jar. I put a second line at the top of the jar to pull a vacuum using, believe it or not, the vacuum of the engine!!! I let the engine pump the system. I'm sure it was not perfect, but it seemed to do the trick. If I were to need to do it again, I would probably use another form of vacuum pump. The book says to draw it up to 27 inches. I can't get the factor one to do that, but any vacuum will be helpful before you fill the system. After that use the above procedure for filling.
Bleeding the system with the above setup
You can remove the hose at the grease gun end and hook up the filler charging assembly valve with the T handle screwed out. Then take the loose end of the hose and put it in a jar. Sloooowly open the T handle valve a tiny bit and watch the fluid filling up the jar. If bubbles emerge you have air in the system. Your car will lower while you do this. You can then reattach the grease gun, bleed out the pump/hose as mentioned above, and pump the car back up. If you think you have a lot of air in the system still, you can keep doing this cycle until you get it right.
That's how I have contended with the Hydrolastic issues in the past. My next challange is to figure it how to put new hoses on the displacers. That is an on-going experiment that I'm still not very sure about. More details later.
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Ojdå, lever tråden änu...
Jo den länken har varit upp tidigare i andra trådar. Jag lyckades pumpa upp min med en lite okonventionell metod...
http://www.hundkoja.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5201
/Magnus
Jo den länken har varit upp tidigare i andra trådar. Jag lyckades pumpa upp min med en lite okonventionell metod...
http://www.hundkoja.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5201
/Magnus
Austin 850 -66
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Min lokala Parkerstore hittade den lilla kopplingen - men dom ska ha 1029:- +moms för den! Jag menar hallå 1029 plus fettspruta + slamg plus en massa meck. puh! Billigare att ta Ryanair till London - sen tar det (enligt Google Map) ungefär nio å en halv timmar att GÅ till Mini Spares i Potters Bar (45 min med bil) och köpa en pump för £275 VAT included 
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
ja där skulle man kanske ta en studietur till inte så vansinigt dyrt åka till london o är man några stycken att dela på hyrbilen, göra det i samband med någon minishow i london typ london- brighton. någon sugen
www.london-to-brighton.co.uk
www.london-to-brighton.co.uk
TURBO ROCKS..
henriks bygg
henriks bygg
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Personligen tror jag att jag sparar varenda penny till IMM. Lär nog gå loss på en hacka om man ska få med sig bilen och den kan man ju inte lämna hemma 
Annars kan man ju gå ihop några stycken som bor i samma område och köpa en tillsammans, hittade en ny på ebay för £250 ink frakt. Några intresserade i Stockholmsområdet?
Appropå det här med priser: på MiniSpares tar dom £275 för en pump (http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=34940&title=HYDRO%20SUSPENSION%20PUMP). På MiniMania tar dom €790 (!) för exakt samma pump (http://www.minimania.com/web/item/TOOL01/InvDetail.cfm)!!! ...och då är den ändå nedsatt från €930!
Annars kan man ju gå ihop några stycken som bor i samma område och köpa en tillsammans, hittade en ny på ebay för £250 ink frakt. Några intresserade i Stockholmsområdet?
Appropå det här med priser: på MiniSpares tar dom £275 för en pump (http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=34940&title=HYDRO%20SUSPENSION%20PUMP). På MiniMania tar dom €790 (!) för exakt samma pump (http://www.minimania.com/web/item/TOOL01/InvDetail.cfm)!!! ...och då är den ändå nedsatt från €930!
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Jag har en äkta pump. Man skall suga vacum i systemet innan man fyller på.
Finns i Gnesta för utlåning.
//Henrik
Finns i Gnesta för utlåning.
//Henrik
Re: Bygga hydrolaskic pump?
Då tackar man och planerar in en tur till Gnesta framåt vårkanten.
Vi ses!
//janne
Vi ses!
//janne